Maison Margiela's Performance Blurred The Line Between Spectacles

The show begins with Lucky Love, a Freddie Mercury doppelganger, who reveales his missing left arm at the beginning of his cult hit "No, I Don't Need Your Love.". After that, a nearly invisible screen starts a sketch movie that seemingly reveals the sultry, deserted Paris of the late 19th century. The characters appear and the movie starts to operate with surreal sequences reminiscent of Bunuel, where oppression peaks in a David Lynch-like spectrum. Eraserhead, Twin Peaks, and Blue Velvet serve as clear references for cinematic solutions and atmosphere creation. Then, in an oppressive moment, the boy running on the screen passes by the Eiffel Tower and simply runs onto the runway, where the interior ensures the organic transition from the virtual to the "real".

The atmosphere of the sultry streets continues; guests who arrived on the runway sit in a smoky pub. They experienced an unconventional catwalk, as the models stop, linger at the expressions of the guests, and lean against a lamppost. Each haute couture piece is strongly erotic and mysterious. Every model is a character, a kind of dark figure in the style of Charles Dickens, and they break the rules that apply to them. In addition, the dual use of space, disconcerting dynamics, and the character breaking from the movie to reality are exciting. One might think of Guy Debord's work "The Society of the Spectacle," as the characters land from one spectacle (sketch movie) to another spectacle (runway), further intensifying the tension in the already oppressive and intriguing show.  At the end of the event, Maison Margiela's creative director, John Galliano, was greeted with a standing ovation, following the tradition set by Martin Margiela, as he did not bow to the audience, paying homage to the fashion house's founder. They worked on the entire show for two years, spending one year just for creating the garments, and the immense work and invested energy paid off in the form of international recognition. The cover image of our article showcases Pat McGrath's special makeup of the show and she did an excellent job. The porcelain faces further layer the story of the event, depicting the models' exaggerated manners, set on the banks of the Seine River during the first full moon of the year.

Purely from a raw fashion standpoint, the show had two very important points of interest: One was the Louboutin Tabi collaboration, resulting in the iconic Tabi split-toe being added to the red-soled Louboutin models. The other, perhaps even more startling detail, where the pubic region was covered with human hair, creating another spectacle in front of reality. We recommend the entire show to everyone, as it is rare to experience such a groundbreaking and strongly atmospheric event.